Despite recent posts to the contrary I'm not big on sweets, preferring
savoury any day. However, I've currently got a bit of an obsession with
making North African sweets and cakes,
partly prompted by the gorgeous patisseries I was window shopping in
when I visited Paris last November, and partly due to boredom. I hate the
winter, I hate the cold and I hate the rain. For the past few weekends
the weather has been dire and the incentive
to go out and 'do' something has been sadly lacking. Add to the mix a
Winter lurg and you’ve got a recipe for staying at home.
Mlabes are a Tunisian and Algerian delicacy, beautifully iced almond
biscuits that melt in the mouth. I searched high and low for a fool
proof recipe, but the majority I found online seemed to be based on the
same original recipe, one that had at some point
been translated from Arabic, in itself not a problem, but no one seemed
to know what one of the mystery ingredients was (kthira*) so omitted
it. All the recipes did contain egg whites, and as I'm not overly fond
of using eggs if I can get away with it I decided
to play around with the ingredients a bit. Using margarine as a binding
agent seemed to work acceptably, admittedly my cookies are probably a
bit 'heavier' than they should be, but I like the texture. I also
substituted half ground pistachios for the almonds.
I should point out that any weights listed below are an approximation
only; I didn't weigh anything out while I was making the cookies, and
adjusted the ingredients depending on the texture. You want the dough to
hold together and be quite malleable, so adjust
the ground almonds / margarine accordingly.
For the icing, I used an all-in-one royal icing mix (icing sugar and
powdered egg white), and added a little more water than the directions
on the packet stated so I could dip the cookies in.
Ingredients
200g ground almonds (or 2/3 almonds 1/3 ground pistachios)
50g sugar
2 tablespoons rose water (or orange flower water)
50g margarine (melted)
1. Mix the ground almonds and sugar in a large bowl. Stir in the rose water.
2. Add the melted margarine slowly, you should have a slightly oily
malleable dough. If it's too crumbly add more margarine, too loose then
add some more almonds.
3. Pinch off small pieces of the dough and roll into balls slightly smaller than golf ball size
4. Arrange on an oiled baking tray and bake at 175C for 20 minutes
5. Allow the cookies to cool completely before icing them
Icing
1. Prepare the icing according to the packet (or Google a recipe for
royal icing if you want to make your own with egg whites!) you may need
to add a little more water, the icing should be thick enough to coat the
cookies without slipping off, but not so think
that you’ve got to trowel it on! You can either leave the icing plain,
or flavour it. I made half with plain icing, and added some violet
essence and mauve food colouring to the other half
2. Dip the cookies fully into icing and place on a rack to dry
3. Traditionally they are topped with a diamond of gold or silver leaf, I
used a combination of edible gold glitter, bronze sprinkles, and gold
stars. To go with the violet ones ideally I would have topped them with a
crystallised violet petal…
4. Step back and admire your finished work. Sure they are a little wonky
and the icing may not be great, but for a first attempt they are not
bad at all
*Best guess for kthira is that it is a gum or a resin similar to mastic or gum arabic...