Saturday 27 December 2014

Chickpea, chocolate and pistachio pudding

While I am an avid collector of cookery books, I rarely use them for recipes, more for reading or for inspiration. However, I recently bought a copy of the Comptoir Libanais Express cook book and whilst flicking through the pages a recipe caught my attention - one for a chickpea and chocolate dessert. I have to say I was both repulsed and also intrigued by the idea. While I like to think I am pretty open minded as far as food goes (if it's veggie then I'll eat absolutely anything) I have a problem with sweet beans. Some things, as far as my mind goes, are meant to be savoury, and while I am happy to make cookies and halva using chickpea flour, in my mind cooked chickpeas themselves are savoury and the thought of making a pudding with them seemed to be the antithesis of all that is right in the world.

However, I do love a challenge, and was curious so I decided to try and make it. I've adapted the recipe somewhat, the original called for gelatine (I substituted cornflour / cornstarch), and used ground almonds (I've substituted pistachios). I also added some orange blossom water, and rather than a chocolate (or carob) sauce I decided on an orange blossom syrup. 
So... what was the end result like? Actually very nice. The texture was a little grainy, though that was more due to me not having a decent blender and doing the best I could with a stick blender, the taste was quite delicious though. I put a couple of the desserts in the freezer, as I think it could work quite well as a dairy free ice cream...

Ingredients
1 400g can of chickpeas (drained and rinsed)
400ml almond milk
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
50 g honey (to make it vegan use agave syrup)
5 tablespoons cornflour
100g pistachios
125g dark chocolate
2 tablespoons orange blossom water
Rose water syrup
Chopped pistachios 
Rose petals (optional)

1. Add the chickpeas and almond milk to a pan, bring to the boil then turn off the heat and leave for 15-20 minutesto infuse
2. Pour off around 50ml of the almond milk and add to the cornflour, mixing well until you have a smooth lumpess paste
3. Blend the chickpeas, almond milk and cocoa powder until smooth
4. Pour the mixture back into the pan, add the honey and chocolate. Heat gently until the chocolate has fully melted
5. Stir in the cornflour and almond milk mixture and continue to cook on a low heat for around 5 minutes
6. Turn off the heat and add the ground pistachios and orange blossom water
7. Pour the mixture into ramekins (makes enough for around 6) and leave to cool before refrigerating for a few hours
8. To serve tip out on a plate and decorate with nuts and rose petals. Delicious with a fragrant orange blossom syrup (2 parts sugar to one part water, orange blossom water added to taste)
 

Sunday 21 December 2014

Aubergine and chickpea fattet

It's winter and time for comfort food... I could never buy into the 'carbs are the enemy' mentality popular these days as the thought of life devoid of bread, rice and pasta seems to be a very sad existence indeed. When in need of something warm and nourishing I tend to look eastwards and feeling in need of something more substantial for breakfast than porridge I decided on Fattet.  
Fattet (or fatteh / fette) is a dish found over the Middle East, its base being stale fried pita or flatbread (the name comes from the Arabic word for crumbs). There are quite a few different variations of fattet, fattet hummus where a layer of steamed chickpeas cover the bread, or fattet makdous where fried aubergine is added to name but two. The resulting delicious mixture is then usually topped with a yoghurt tahini sauce. Inspired by the delicious fattet moussaka (with the Middle Eastern vegetarian moussaka rather than the Greek style) I ate last weekend, I decided to go for that option, combining the aubergine with a spicy tomato sauce. Also, rather than fry the bread and aubergine I baked them in the oven, while maybe not quite as unctious as the fried version, it tasted perfectly acceptable and probably saved quite a few hundred calories. Don't be put off by the daunting list of ingredients, most of them are for the moussaka (which could be omitted if you want to go with the basic but delicious fattet hummus)
Ingredients
3 pita breads
1 can of chickpeas
1 large aubergine
1 red onion (sliced)
3 cloves of garlic (crushed)
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp caraway seeds 
1 can of tomatoes
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon harissa
2 tablespoons smoked paprika
2 tsp cumin
Olive oil
1 handful pine nuts
3 tablespoons low fat yoghurt
3 tablespoons tahini
Pinch of salt
Squeeze of lemon juice
Hot water (to thin sauce)
Fresh coriander
Fresh parsley 

1. Prick the aubergine and bake for around 30 minutes until soft, take out the oven and allow to cool before cutting into large cubes
2. While the aubergine is baking, cut the pita bread into squares (approximately 1 x 1 inch) and spread over a baking tray. Drizzle with a little olive oil (optional) and sprinkle the cumin and caraway seeds over the top and bake for around 10 minutes until golden brown. 
3. For the moussaka: Fry the onion and garlic until softened, stir in the ground spices, harissa, vinegar and tomatoes. I also like to add some pureed soaked ancho chillies which give a delicious smokey flavour. Stir and add the cubed cooked aubergine. Turn down the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, at the end of cooking stir in the chopped coriander and parsley
4. Heat the chickpeas 
5. For the tahini yoghurt sauce: Mix in a bowl, add salt to taste and a squeeze of lemon juice. Thin the sauce to a pourable consistency with a little boiling water
6. To assemble the fattet: Add some of the bread to the bottom of a bowl, top with a couple of spoonfuls of the aubergine moussaka and some of the chickpeas. Add a bit more bread and repeat. Top with the yoghurt tahini sauce and a sprinkling of pine nuts. Eat!

Saturday 22 November 2014

Koshari (rice with lentils, pasta and chick peas)

I posted a recipe for mujadarra a while back, a delicious rice and lentil concoction found all over the Middle East, rice and lentils are probably one of my 'go to' comfort foods. Easy and quick to make and utterly delicious and satisfying. Nothing like a double dose of carbs to ease a troubled soul. Double dose you say? Pah! I laugh on your double dose, what about a triple, quadruple or even quintuple dose of carbs? Yep, now we're talking, and we're talking koshari!

The Egyptian take on mujadarra. It has the rice and lentils, but snuggling up to them are vermicelli, pasta and chick peas all smothered in a spicy tomato sauce and topped off with fried onions. Oh yeah!
I've side-stepped from tradition slightly with this recipe, it's probably more of a pimped up koshari than the type you'd encounter on the streets of Cairo, as I decided to make the sauce with some canned cherry tomatos and ancho chillies, I also had no ditalini pasta (short macaroni tubes) so mine is the lightweight 4-carb version, but immensely satisfying all the same. I made this with a packet of ready cooked puy lentils - you could use canned brown lentils or cook your own lentils from fresh. As for the sauce, wing it! The ancho chilli gives it a lovely rich smokey flavour, but I've had koshari with a variety of sauces from the thinner vinegary end of the spectrum to the thicker lucious side. It's all good!

Ingredients
200g rice (rinsed)
100g vermicelli
250g cooked lentils
1 can of chick peas
Water (or vegetable stock)
Olive oil

For the sauce
400g can of cherry tomatoes 
4 cloves of garlic (crushed) 
1 large red onion thinly sliced
4 large ancho chillies (soaked in boiling water for 30 minutes)
1 tsp cumin (ground)
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
Salt to taste
Balsamic vinegar

1. Rince the rice to remove some of the excess starch. Roughly break the vermicelli and fry in olive oil until toasted and golden, add a pinch of salt, stir in the rice and cover with boiling water or stock (I'm not giving amounts here, I pour in the water until it's around 1.5 cm from the top of the rice, it's a pretty forgiving recipe as the pasta soaks up any excess water). Turn up the heat and boil vigorously for 1 minute, then turn down to the lowest heat, cover the pan with a cloth and put on the lid and cook for 30 minutes
2. While the rice and pasta are cooking, prepare the sauce
3. For the sauce, fry the crushed garlic and half of the onion in olive oil until softened
4. Toast the cumin, caraway and coriander seeds in a dry pan for a couple of minutes and then grind.
5. Drain the ancho chillis (reserving a little of the soaking liquid) and deseed them. Put in a blender and pulse until they form a smooth paste. Add this to the onion and garlic mixture and fry for a few minutes
6. Add the tomatoes, ground spices and balsamic vinegar and simmer on a low heat for around 30 minutes. Season to taste, if you want a spicier sauce add a spoonful or two of harissa
7. Once the rice is cooked, stir in the lentils and chick peas and put the lid back on. I usually leave things to mingle while I am frying the onions for the topping
8. Fry the remaining thinly sliced onion until crispy and caramelised
9. To serve, spoon the rice, lentils and chick pea mixture on a plate, add a ladle or two of the tomato sauce and top with a handful of crispy fried onions. Delicious!



Wednesday 19 November 2014

Besara (broad bean / fava bean dip)

I was prompted to upload this recipe after hearing my mother wax lyrical about the humble broad bean (fava bean) the other night. Her theory being that mother nature must have known just how special they were because unlike peas and their simple unadorned pod, broad beans are swaddled in a luxurious fur lined casing that befits their role as king of the beans.
Broad beans are a much maligned pulse in a lot of Western (or specifically Northern European) cooking, however head further south and they take on a much more important role. None more  so than in Egypt where in addition to being the star of the ultimate breakfast food fuul medames, they are also found in the Egyptian version of falafel (taameya) and fuul nabet (sprouted bean soup) to name just a few dishes. 

Egyptian bean dishes traditionally use the dried fava beans, I had fresh frozen, while the flavour is perhaps not as concentrated and rich as the slow cooked dried beans, I decided that I would try making the fava bean dip known as besara (or bessara, b'ssara etc depending on transliteration). While traditionally Egyptian it is also found in Morocco. If you want to go down the more traditional route then substitute the 500g fresh beans for dried. Soak them overnight and then cook according to your preference.

Ingredients
500g fresh broad beans (or frozen)
1 large bunch of coriander
1 large bunch of dill
1 large bunch of parsley
Olive oil
4 cloves of garlic (crushed)
Salt and pepper to taste 

For the tasha (garlic and coriander seasoning):
Olive oil
2 cloves of garlic (crushed)
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin

1. Add the beans to water and boil for around 10 minutes, drain (reserving a little of the cooking liquid) and once cool enough to handle, take off the skins. This is time consuming. Ideally for this part of the recipe it helps to have a mother who's idea of a good evening is watching antiques shows on TV whilst skinning broad beans :)
2. Once the beans are skinned (you don't have to be too obsessive about it, but really the taste and texture is so much better) add them to a blender with a good glug of olive oil, the fresh coriander, dill and parsley, crushed garlic and blend until smooth. If the resulting mixture is too thick then add a little of the cooking liquid until you have the desired consistency and season to taste
3. To make the tasha seasoning (so called because when you add the hot oil to the bean mixture it makes a "tssssha" sound) heat some olive oil in a pan and fry the remaining crushed garlic until it is lightly browned, add the coriander and cumin and cook for another few minutes then pour the hot oil and spice mixture into the pureed beans
4. To serve, transfer into a deep serving plate and top with some fried onions. Delicious! 

Saturday 13 September 2014

Sahlab

The weather is getting decidedly chilly. While by rights we should have summer for at least a few more weeks, the wintery chill in the mornings is ominous. I have to say I am a summer person, I function far better in daylight and the thoughts of dark dreary northern European winter mornings does not fill me with joy. What does fill me with joy is the thought of hot sahlab to drink.

Sahlab (or sahleb, salep etc) is hot thick milky drink (or sometimes dessert) popular throughout the Middle East and Turkey. It’s made from sahlab flour which comes from the ground dried roots of a particular species of orchid. While it doesn’t have much in the way of taste (other than being slightly ‘earthy’) it acts as a thickening agent giving a distinct texture. True sahlab itself is not too easy to come by outside of Turkey (or other sahlab drinking countries), and most of the commercially available sahlab mixes contain artificial flavours and cornflour as a thickening agent due to cost/scarcity. The recipe below gives both options, but using cornflour gives perfectly acceptable results.   

Ingredients
2 cups of milk
1/2 tsp ground mastic (optional)
2 tablespoons cornflour (or 1 tablespoon sahlab powder)
1 tablespoon orange blossom water
2 tablespoons sugar
Raisins, pistachios and coconut for garnish  
 


 1. Pour the milk in a saucepan, add the sugar and place over a medium heat

Cornflour version: As the milk warms up, pour a little into a container and mix it with the cornflour (and mastic if using) until you've got a smooth paste, keep to one side
2. Sahlab version: Bring the milk to the boil then add the sahlab in small amounts whisking constantly so you don’t get lumps

Cornflour version: Bring the milk to the boil and add the cornflour/mastic paste and whisk constantly so you don't get lumps
3. Continue to whisk for around 5 minutes, lower the heat slightly and then add the orange blossom water and stir well
4. Ladle into mugs, sprinkle with raisins, nuts and coconut and serve hot with a spoon

Saturday 9 August 2014

Date maamouls

It's always fun to play with new kitchen toys, and my beautiful hand carved maamoul mould is my newest. I already posted a recipe for the pistachio filled maamouls a couple of weeks ago, this time I'm going for the other main traditional filling - dates. Nature's chocolate... the desert's candy... simply divine... 

I used medjool dates to make the filling here, lucious plump beauties. If you can't get a hold of them and are using standard dried dates, soak them for a bit longer in the rose water, overnight if possible so they soak up all that goodness. If all you can find in your supermarket is the so-called 'ready to eat' dates then frankly I wouldn't bother! I am not sure what they do to them, but whatever it is seems to render them useless for cooking.

Ingredients
300g semolina
100g white flour
150g margarine / ghee
50g caster sugar
1/4 tsp ground mastic (optional)
1/4 tsp mahleb (optional)
1/4 tsp yeast
100ml orange blossom or rose water 

For the date filling
8 medjool dates
Pinch of cinnamon
Orange blossom water

1. Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl, melt the margarine or ghee and pour in, along with the orange blossom or rose water. Mix together until it comes together in a large dough ball. Cover with plastic wrap and leave for around 4 hours. I should point out, in that time nothing particularly magical happens, it doesn't transform in size, the waiting period is more to allow the semolina to absorb the fat
2. While the dough is resting, blitz the dates in a blender, with the cinnamon and orange blossom water. You want a fairly thick textured paste
3. Pinch golf ball sized (or walnut, depending on your frame of reference) pieces of the dough and roll into balls. With this quantity you should have enough to make around 20 (ish) maamouls
4. Take a ball into one hand and flatten out with the heel of your other hand. Pinch off a teaspoonful of the date paste and roll into a ball. Place this in the middle of the flattened dough circle and close the dough around it to encase fully
5. At this point squish it in your maamoul mould, traditionally the oval ones are used for nut fillings, and the round for date. If you don't have a mould then you can decorate a pattern on the top with a fork
6. Arrange the maamouls on a baking tray covered with greaseproof paper and bake in an oven preheated to ~190C for 15-20minutes. You want the bottom golden, but the top to be lightly coloured
7. Cool, and dust with icing sugar to serve

Sunday 27 July 2014

Mushroom and chestnut kibbeh

I already wrote a little about kibbeh/kubbe before, those delicious morsels consisting (usually) of a bulgar wheat shell encasing a filling, and then fried until crisp or cooked in a soup. Sometimes, as in the case of tray kibbeh it is based with the filling sandwiched between the bulgar wheat.
I found a box of chestnuts that I had bought some time before and then promptly forgotten about (actually, more correctly they got buried under a million cans of chick peas and shoved to the back of the cupboard). After a clean out I decided that I needed to use them, and I knew exactly what to make. Mushroom and chestnut kibbeh.

While it is not a traditional kibbeh filling, it is a combination that works wonderfully well together. I can't take credit for the idea though, as I first tasted them at the Arabica deli counter in Selfridges... Pricey, but oh so delicious.

Ingredients
200g bulgar wheat
100g semolina
2 tablespoons flour
1 tsp salt

For the filling
2 large portobello mushrooms
200g chestnuts
3 cloves of garlic (crushed)
Olive oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp allspice
1 tsp oregano
A splodge of harissa (optional)

1. Put the bulgar wheat in a bowl and cover with boiling water. You want it to be completely covered and leave to soak for 30-60 minutes
2. While the bulgar is soaking prepare the filling. Chop the mushrooms and fry in olive oil with the spices until softened, then stir in the chestnuts and cook for a few more minutes. Turn the heat up high and cook briefly until all the excess water from the mushrooms has evaporated. Tip onto a plate and let it cool
3. After the bulgar wheat has soaked, drain and squeeze out the excess water (a clean kitchen cloth is ideal for this). I couldn't get a hold of any fine bulgar wheat, so I mushed it up between my fingers to try and break down the grains at this point. Tastewise it makes not one bit of difference, but the fine bulgar does make for a slightly neater and prettier kubbeh
4. Mix in the semolina, flour and salt
5. Knead the dough for a few minutes, you'll notice that the dough tends to crack or crumble as it dries. Keep a bowl of water beside you as you work to dip your fingers in as you make the kibbeh shells
6. Take a lump of the dough (what size? Hmm... kibbeh size, bit bigger than a golf ball but smaller than a tennis ball!) and roll it into a ball. Placing your thumb in the centre of the ball squeeze the sides out so as to make a cup-shaped receptacle for the filling. If the dough starts to crack or split dip your hands into water to moisten it. Question: how thin should your kibbeh walls be? Answer: as thin as possible! 
7. Add a spoonful (or as much as you reckon will fit) of the filling and gently pinch the sides together. If it looks like there will be some leakage, just pinch off some more dough to patch it up. Wet your fingers and roll into an oval shape (traditionally the ends are pinched so it's more of a torpedo shape)
8. Continue until you run out of either dough or filling. This amount should make around 10 kibbeh. As an aside, if you have any excess filling it is delicious spread on toast. If you don't want to cook all of the kibbeh you can also freeze them at this point
9. Now to cook. You kibbeh afficionados may have noticed my kibbeh look a bit weird. That is because I decided to bake them rather than the more traditional deep frying. How you cook them is up to personal preference. Mine were baked at around 200C for 30 minutes until crispy. If you were so inclined you could also drop them into a soup and simmer for 30 minutes. It's all good!

Saturday 19 July 2014

Pistachio maamouls

I don't need much of an excuse to cook up a batch of maamouls as they are probably one of my favourite cookies to make. However, if I did need an excuse I found the perfect one in London last weekend - a maamoul mould. My granny used to have a few but along with her kitchen axe and massive cauldron they went AWOL after she died. This maamoul mould I bought from the rather fabulous Persepolis in Peckham. Well worth a detour to if you are hankering after all things Iranian (and generally Middle Eastern and scrumptious). 
A small note on a couple of the optional ingredients: mastic is a resin from the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus), it's used in quite a lot of Middle Eastern and Eastern Mediterranean sweets and desserts and lends a pine-y flavour to the finished dish. Mahlab is a spice made from the seeds of a particular species of cherry (Prunus mahaleb) and gives an almondy/cherry flavour to the dish. 

Ingredients
300g semolina
100g white flour
150g margarine / ghee
50g caster sugar
1/4 tsp ground mastic (optional)
1/4 tsp mahleb (optional)
1/4 tsp yeast
100ml orange blossom or rose water 

For the pistachio filling
100g pistachios
Sugar (to taste)
Orange blossom water

1. Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl, melt the margarine or ghee and pour in, along with the orange blossom or rose water. Mix together until it comes together in a large dough ball. Cover with plastic wrap and leave for around 4 hours. I should point out, in that time nothing particularly magical happens, it doesn't transform in size, the waiting period is more to allow the semolina to absorb the fat
2. While the dough is resting, blitz the pistachios in a blender and add sugar to taste and then the flower water until you have a fairly tough marzipan-ish paste
3. Pinch golf ball sized (or walnut, depending on your frame of reference) pieces of the dough and roll into balls. With this quantity you should have enough to make around 20 (ish) maamouls
4. Take a ball into one hand and flatten out with the heel of your other hand. Pinch off a teaspoonful of the pistachio paste and roll into a sausage. Place this in the middle of the flattened dough circle and close the dough around it to encase fully
5. At this point squish it in your maamoul mould, traditionally the oval ones are used for nut fillings, and the round for date. If you don't have a mould then you can decorate a pattern on the top with a fork
6. Arrange the maamouls on a baking tray covered with greaseproof paper and bake in an oven preheated to ~190C for 15-20minutes. You want the bottom golden, but the top to be lightly coloured
7. Cool, and dust with icing sugar to serve (or alternatively leave for 5 minutes and eat while hot... Mmmm)

Wednesday 9 July 2014

Amardeen (Dried apricot drink)

Keeping on the apricot theme, and with some left over amardeen sauce from my mahalabiya, I thought I’d make up some amardeen drink. A refreshing drink made of apricot leather (amardeen*) traditionally served to break the fast at Ramadan. As with most of my recipes amounts are approximate. Some recipes for this drink use added sugar, but personally I find the apricots are sweet enough as is. Feel free to chuck in some sugar if you like yours extra sweet!

* Also known as kamardeen/din  / qamardeen/din / Amar el Deen/Din / Qamar el Deen/Din etc etc depending on the transliteration of Arabic

Ingredients
100g amardeen (or a few handfuls of dried apricots*)
100ml boiling water
2 tablespoons rose water
Pine nuts / pistachios (to decorate)

1. Tear the amardeen / apricot leather into small pieces and put in a bowl. Cover with boiling water and leave to soak for at least 30 minutes (or until softened, may take longer). *If you can’t get a hold of amardeen, dried apricots are an acceptable substitute, though the flavour wont be as concentrated. Try to avoid the ‘ready to eat’ apricots that most supermarkets sell nowadays, they are partially reconstituted and while perfectly ok to eat they are lacking in the concentrated flavour. Ideally what you want is wizened dried up shrivelled things
2. Once softened, puree until smooth. If necessary push through a sieve
3. Dilute with cold water until it reaches the desired consistency  - you want a thickish juice
4. Stir in the rose water
5. Serve with ice and pine nuts (or pistachios) to decorate

Sunday 6 July 2014

Mahalabiya with amardeen (Middle Eastern milk dessert with dried apricot sauce)

Mahalabiya / malabi / muhalabiyah etc is probably one of my favourite desserts, easy to make and always delicious. I usually make a rose water syrup to go with it, but today I thought I'd try something more refreshing. I'd bought some amardeen (also known as kamardeen, qamardeen, kamar el din, gamar el deen etc etc depending on the transliteration) a fruit leather made of apricot that is popular in the Middle East. It's used in desserts and sweets (particularly Lebanese sweets), and when soaked and pureed it's turned into a refreshing drink, traditionally used to break the fast at Ramadan. If you don't have amardeen, then dried apricots will work almost as well. This recipe makes enough for 4 small portions (or two mahoosive ones!)

Ingredients
For the mahalabiya:
500ml milk
200g sugar
5 tablespoons cornflour
2 tablespoons rose water

For the sauce:
50g amardeen (or a couple of handfuls of dried apricots
Hot water
Orange blossom water (or rose water if you prefer)

1. Rip the amardeen into small pieces, put in a container and pour over enough boiling water just to cover. Leave for around 30 minutes or until softened and blend. Stir in the orange blossom water and add extra hot water until it has a sauce-like consistency (how runny depends on your personal taste). Leave to cool
2. Add the milk and sugar to a pan and bring to the boil
3. While the milk is heating, mix hot water into the cornflour until you have a smooth paste
4. Once the milk boils pour some into the cornflour mixture and whisk until smooth, then quickly pour this back into the pan with the remainder of the milk
5. Turn the heat down and whisk for around 5 minutes until it has the consistency of custard
6. Take off the heat and stir in the rose water. Pour into serving dishes and cool before refrigerating for a few hours
7. To serve, top with the apricot sauce and a sprinkling of flaked almonds

 

Tuesday 1 July 2014

Date shake

I seem to have gone a bit date crazy recently… In my defence, as my local supermarkets just seem to stock awful 'ready to eat' dates (i.e. reconstituted with nastiness, preservatives, oil and usually tasting of nothing) when I see unadulterated dried dates or beautiful glistening fresh ones I have a tendency to go a bit wild and buy in bulk. Which has resulted in having around 2kg of dates in the cupboard, and a couple of packs of reduced to clear medjool dates that I picked up last night on the way home from work. So I decided I had to do something with them and quick. As it is Ramadan at the moment, and it is traditional to break the fast with dates and a drink, here is a recipe that combines both. 

Ingredients
500ml milk (real, soya, rice or otherwise)
10 dates*
2 tablespoons rose water or orange blossom water
Pinch ground cardamom
Flaked almonds or pistachios to decorate (optional)

1. The first step depends on how squidgy your dates are, if you’ve got some large juicy medjool dates then just whizz them up in a blender. If your dates are of the drier variety then chop them up finely and soak in some freshly boiled water for an hour or so and then puree
2. Pour the milk, date puree, rose water (or orange blossom water) and cardamom into a blender and blend
3. Serve over ice in a tall glass, decorate with some flaked almonds if you so wish and enjoy. Also delicious if made into a smoothie with yoghurt instead of milk, or with a scoop or two of ice cream to thicken things up
, or some oats if you want to have a breakfast smoothie instead. The possibilities are endless...


*I used medjool dates, so soft and lucious that they practically turn into a delicious puree as soon as you look at them. Dried dates will need some soaking to soften them up, and I am not sure how well it would work with a date like deglet noor, as beautiful they are to look at, and with a delightful honeyed taste I am not sure whether they'd puree successfully, but I may be wrong...

Saturday 28 June 2014

Omek houriya (North African carrot salad)

Carrots are pretty versatile vegetables turning themselves to just about anything sweet or savoury. Omek houriya (or omi/ommok houriya/houria depending on the transliteration) showcases them in their (almost) natural form, with the flavour enhanced by harissa, cumin, caraway and coriander seeds. This Tunisian recipe is usually served with a topping of tuna, egg and olives but works just as well without the fishyness (or egg, and in my case olives as I realised I had none in the house...). Simple and a perfect way to use up any carrots languishing at the back of your fridge.

Ingredients
Carrots (amount left to the cooks discretion)
Olive oil
2 cloves of garlic
2 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
2 tsp caraway seeds
1 tablespoons harissa
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Boil the carrots until done (~ 10 minutes or thereabouts. You don't want them to be too mushy
2. Drain and mash or blend to a puree. The texture varies, some cooks blend it to a smooth paste, others a more chunky texture
3. Add the crushed garlic, I like adding it when the carrots are still warm as the flavour infuses through the mixture
4. Dry roast the cumin, coriander and caraway seeds in a heavy based pan and then grind. You *could* use ready ground spices, but if at all possible try to grind the coriander yourself, it tastes totally different from the pre-ground stuff
5. Add to the carrot mixture and taste. Season and stir in a splash of olive oil
6. Now mix in the harissa, I have suggested a tablespoonful but it really depends on what brand you are using
7. Eat, traditionally it comes topped with tuna, hardboiled egg and olives
 

Saturday 21 June 2014

Rose, cardamom and pistachio kulfi (Indian style ice cream)

First off I have to say that I am not a big fan of ice cream... I know... I know... I'll let that statement sink in, I accept that I am abnormal. Having said that I do indulge on occasion, such as when the weather is particularly warm (all too rare in the UK) or when like at the moment I have been struck down by laryngitis. Nothing eases a sore throat like smooth and creamy ice cream melting its way down to your stomach.

And onto kulfi, Indian / Pakistani style ice cream, while it shares a lot with its European cousin, it is all together a richer experience, and an absolute doddle to make. No churning required, no fiddling around with egg yolks or anything like that. Just add the ingredients to a pan, cook for a short while and you're done. With regards to flavour, traditionally it's cardamom, rose, mango, saffron, pistachio or malai (cream). For a first attempt I stuck with tradition and went for a combination of rose, cardamom and pistachio, though in addition to the more traditional stuff I also flavoured half the batch with violet, which I have to say was very tasty. 
In fact spurred on by that break from tradition I sense another kulfi making session in the near future where I can experiment with date and walnut, apricot and orange blossom water, Turkish delight, halva and an assortment of other Middle Eastern flavours...

Tempted? Try the recipe below, easy as pie and guaranteed delicious results every time!


Ingredients
397g condensed milk
400ml milk
2 tablespoons skimmed milk powder
12 cardamom pods
1 tablespoon rose water
50g pistachios (crushed)


1. Add the condensed milk, milk, milk powder and 8 of the cardamom pods to a heavy bottomed pan and bring to the boil
2. Simmer for 10 minutes until thickened, take off the heat and allow to cool
3. Strain to remove the cardamom pods
4. Grind the seeds from the remaining 4 cardamoms into a powder and stir into the cooled milk along with the crushed pistachios and rose water
5. Pour into individual containers (this amount makes enough to fill 4 yoghurt pot sized containers) and freeze overnight
6. Eat, and enjoy the fact that you have made something that tastes 100 times better than any shop bought ice cream!

Monday 5 May 2014

Salad Mechouia (North African roasted pepper salad)

I love the taste of vegetables cooked over an open flame, however having an electric oven and hob just doesn't get the same results. I took advantage of the long Bank Holiday weekend and decided to set up a barbeque (one of those disposable supermarket ones) and grill some veggies. Aubergines for baba ghanoush (oven cooked ones taste okay; however burned and charred skin takes it to another level of deliciousness entirely...) were my first choice, and as the charcoals were still white hot I decided to throw on some peppers without any clear idea on what to make with them.

Grilled salads are popular all over North Africa, and this one salad mechouia (or salad mashwiya /meshwiyya depending on the transliteration - meshwiya meaning grilled or roasted in Arabic) makes use of grilled red and green peppers, chillies, tomatoes, garlic and onion.  The salad is also found in Israel, brought over by the Moroccan immigrants and is known as matbucha, though the Israeli version is probably heavier on the tomatoes. 

It's a simple recipe and one that literally takes a couple of minutes to put together (assuming you already roasted the veggies)

Ingredients
2 green peppers
2 red peppers
1 green chilli
1 large red onion
2 tomatoes
2 large cloves of garlic (unpeeled)
2 tsp capers (optional)
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
Olive oil
Lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Black olives (to garnish)

1. Put the veggies on the grill and cook until well done and slightly charred. Leave to cool and then peel
2. While the vegetables are grilling, dry roast the cumin, caraway and coriander seeds in a frying pan for a few minutes until the aroma is released. Grind in a pestle and mortar
3. Chop the peeled peppers into small cubes and toss them in a large bowl (some recipes call for all of the vegetables to be blended, however I prefer my salad chunky - each to their own...)
4. Roughly blend the onions, garlic, chilli and tomatoes together and then add to the chopped peppers. I add some capers at this point.
5. Stir in the ground spices and add the olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
6. You can eat immediately, but it tastes better after a few hours to allow the flavours to blend. Serve at room temperature decorated with black olives.

Thursday 24 April 2014

Date halwa

I was on a halwa making roll this weekend, and as I had some half empty bags of dates and figs I decided to make up another batch of halwa. A super easy recipe that is rather tasty, and a good way to use up those half empty random bags of dried fruit at the back of the kitchen cupboards...

Ingredients
110g chickpea flour
250g dried dates and/or figs
4 tablespoons rose water
100g margarine (melted)
200ml milk
100g sugar
50g chopped mixed nuts
Desiccated coconut (to decorate)

1. Cut the fruit into small pieces, put into a container and pour in a little boiling water to just cover them. Leave overnight (or a few hours) to soak and then puree
2. Dry roast the chickpea flour for around 5 minutes in a heavy bottomed pan until it loses its 'raw' smell, then tip into another container
3. Add the fig/date puree, chopped nuts, sugar, milk and rose water to the pan and slowly heat, adding around half of the melted margarine
4. Sift in the chickpea flour and stir well
5. Bring the mixture to the boil and then turn the heat down, stirring constantly
6. Now add the rest of the margarine
7. Keep on stirring until the mixture starts to pull away from the sides of the pan, this takes around 10-15 minutes
8. Pour into a container lined with cling film. Decorate with some desiccated coconut  (optional)
9. Leave to cool and then cut into pieces

Sunday 20 April 2014

Apricot and pistachio halwa

I was tidying out the kitchen cupboards over the weekend and found half a bag of chickpea flour, hmm... what to do with it? 
While I did fancy making some onion bhajis the thought of cooking up something sweet with it was also mighty appealing, so I decided upon making halwa. This version is somewhere between Middle Eastern style halwa and an Indian barfi. I kind of made up the recipe as I went along and it turned out pretty tasty. Note: despite the fact that this is fruit based it probably contains a million calories, but sometimes it's best not to think about these things too deeply...
Ingredients
110g chickpea flour
250g dried apricots
Fresh orange juice
4 tablespoons rose water
100g margarine (melted)
200ml milk
50g pistachios
Rose petals (to decorate)

1. Cut the apricots into small pieces, put into a container and pour in enough orange juice to just cover them. Leave overnight (or a few hours) to soak and then puree
2. Dry roast the chickpea flour for around 5 minutes in a heavy bottomed pan until it loses its 'raw' smell, then tip into another container
3. Add the apricot puree, pistachios, milk and rose water to the pan and slowly heat, adding around half of the melted margarine
4. Sift in the chickpea flour and stir well
5. Bring the mixture to the boil and then turn the heat down, stirring constantly
6. Now add the rest of the margarine
7. Keep on stirring until the mixture starts to pull away from the sides of the pan, this takes around 10-15 minutes
8. Pour into a container lined with cling film. Decorate with some crushed pistachios and rose petals (optional)
9. Leave to cool and then cut into pieces

Sunday 6 April 2014

Muhammara (Middle Eastern chilli and nut dip)

Muhammara (or m'hammara) is a dip found over the Middle East and and beyond (there's also an Armenian version called garmeroug), its origins are said to lie in the Syrian city of Aleppo. Primarily it consists of either fresh or dried peppers, ground walnuts and olive oil, flavoured with pomegranate molasses and sumac. It can be eaten as a dip, spread on bread or served as a sauce, typically for grilled meats or fish.
I was inspired to make this after reading the Comptoir Libanais cookbook, but I've moved away from the traditional ingredients slightly, I had a bag of ground hazelnuts in the cupboard that needed to be used up, also I had no aleppo pepper, which is the type of chilli that most versions are based on, however I did have some dried ancho chillies which I figured would give a nice earthy smokiness to the finished dish.
It's pretty easy to make, and with the exception of the time taken to roast the peppers, it's something that can be whizzed up in minutes.


Ingredients
2 red sweet peppers
2 large ancho chillies
100g ground nuts (I used hazelnuts, traditionally walnuts are used)
1 tsp sumac
1 tsp ground cumin 
1 large garlic clove (crushed)
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
Olive oil
Handful of fresh coriander (optional)
Salt to taste 

1. Roast the peppers until the skin is blackened, allow to cool and peel
2. While the peppers are roasting soak the ancho chillies in boiling water (for around 30 minutes)
3. Add the cooled and peeled sweet peppers, rehydrated chillies and coriander to a blender with a dash of olive oil (can add more to taste) and the pomegranate molasses and blend until smooth. 
4. Stir in the nuts, crushed garlic, sumac and cumin. Add salt to taste.
5. Eat!

Saturday 15 February 2014

Mlabes (North African iced cookies)

Despite recent posts to the contrary I'm not big on sweets, preferring savoury any day. However, I've currently got a bit of an obsession with making North African sweets and cakes, partly prompted by the gorgeous patisseries I was window shopping in when I visited Paris last November, and partly due to boredom. I hate the winter, I hate the cold and I hate the rain. For the past few weekends the weather has been dire and the incentive to go out and 'do' something has been sadly lacking. Add to the mix a Winter lurg and you’ve got a recipe for staying at home.

Mlabes are a Tunisian and Algerian delicacy, beautifully iced almond biscuits that melt in the mouth. I searched high and low for a fool proof recipe, but the majority I found online seemed to be based on the same original recipe, one that had at some point been translated from Arabic, in itself not a problem, but no one seemed to know what one of the mystery ingredients was (kthira*) so omitted it. All the recipes did contain egg whites, and as I'm not overly fond of using eggs if I can get away with it I decided to play around with the ingredients a bit. Using margarine as a binding agent seemed to work acceptably, admittedly my cookies are probably a bit 'heavier' than they should be, but I like the texture. I also substituted half ground pistachios for the almonds.
I should point out that any weights listed below are an approximation only; I didn't weigh anything out while I was making the cookies, and adjusted the ingredients depending on the texture. You want the dough to hold together and be quite malleable, so adjust the ground almonds / margarine accordingly.
For the icing, I used an all-in-one royal icing mix (icing sugar and powdered egg white), and added a little more water than the directions on the packet stated so I could dip the cookies in.



Ingredients
200g ground almonds (or 2/3 almonds 1/3 ground pistachios)
50g sugar
2 tablespoons rose water (or orange flower water)
50g margarine (melted)

1. Mix the ground almonds and sugar in a large bowl. Stir in the rose water.
2. Add the melted margarine slowly, you should have a slightly oily malleable dough. If it's too crumbly add more margarine, too loose then add some more almonds.
3. Pinch off small pieces of the dough and roll into balls slightly smaller than golf ball size
4. Arrange on an oiled baking tray and bake at 175C for 20 minutes
5. Allow the cookies to cool completely before icing them
 

Icing
1. Prepare the icing according to the packet (or Google a recipe for royal icing if you want to make your own with egg whites!) you may need to add a little more water, the icing should be thick enough to coat the cookies without slipping off, but not so think that you’ve got to trowel it on! You can either leave the icing plain, or flavour it. I made half with plain icing, and added some violet essence and mauve food colouring to the other half
2. Dip the cookies fully into icing and place on a rack to dry
3. Traditionally they are topped with a diamond of gold or silver leaf, I used a combination of edible gold glitter, bronze sprinkles, and gold stars. To go with the violet ones ideally I would have topped them with a crystallised violet petal…
4. Step back and admire your finished work. Sure they are a little wonky and the icing may not be great, but for a first attempt they are not bad at all

 *Best guess for kthira is that it is a gum or a resin similar to mastic or gum arabic...

Sunday 26 January 2014

Basbousa (semolina cake) with orange blossom syrup

I'm not a big baker of cakes, in fact I rarely attempt to bake anything, preferring instead to make savoury foods. Well, with the exception of Middle Eastern sweets. Basbousa (also known as hareesa, revani or ravani) lies somewhere in between a sweet and a cake. It's found thoughout North Africa and the Middle East, and also in Greece and Turkey, though its actual origins are probably Egyptian. 
There are numerous recipies out there for basbousa, some using self raising flour in addition to semolina, some using eggs, some yoghurt, and some milk. I've gone for the yoghurt version as I think the tanginess of the yoghurt contrasts beautifully with the sweetness of the syrup. And about the syrup, some versions have a rose water syrup whereas others call for a plain simple syrup. 
Don't worry about being too precise with the ingredients, like just about everything I make it doesn't call for exact measurements. Same with the cooking time, depending on the size of dish, efficiency of the oven and the phase of the moon it could take anything from 30 minutes to an hour :)

Ingredients
350g semolina
50g dessicated coconut
100g caster sugar
Vanilla extract (optional)
150g margarine (melted)
200g Greek yoghurt
3/4 tsp baking powder
1 pinch of salt
Blanched almonds (to decorate)
For the syrup
250ml water
225g sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon orange blossom water

1. Mix the semolina, baking powder, coconut, sugar and salt in a bowl
2. Stir in the melted butter, the mixture should look like damp sand
3. Add the yoghurt and vanilla extract (if using) and mix well. You should end up with a thick batter-like dough
4. Grease a baking dish (~ 27cm/10 inch) and spoon in the mixture. Smooth down and leave for around 20 minutes (Use this time to make the syrup and let the oven heat up...)
5. To make the syrup add the water and sugar to a pan and bring to the boil and then simmer for 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice (this will stop the syrup crystalising when it cools) and then add the orange blossom water. Leave to one side
6. Score the top of the cake mixture into lozenge shapes, and then put into a preheated oven (175C) for 20 minutes
 7. It's not ready yet, you just want to reinforce the scoring, and if you're using almonds to decorate press them into the centre of each lozenge at this point (if you do it right at the start they tend to burn)
8. Put the cake back in the oven and cook for another 20-40 minutes. You want the top to be golden brown, as the cake is so moist cooking it for longer wont dry it out. Just keep checking on it!
9. Once the cake is cooked, take it out of the oven and pour on the sugar syrup. You may not need all the syrup (in fact you probably wont! Keep some aside to drizzle on the leftover yoghurt and top with dessicated coconut and chopped pistachios... delicious). Once it's drunk enough of the syrup it's ready to eat. Basbousa can either be eaten warm or cold.